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Flatbush

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“Hey Down in Front”

Last week they cut the ribbon on the new arena on Flatbush and Atlantic.  Phone booths around town have been promoting today’s opening date.

Montague Street phone booth, 2012; M. Jasper collection.

I have tickets for the venue’s premiere college basketball two-header, featuring the Kentucky Wildcats v. the Maryland Terrapins. I’ll be rooting for Kentucky, which was also the home state of Brooklyn historian Clay Lancaster, who penned the first landmark designation report for the LPC, on Brooklyn Heights, one of the adjacent neighborhoods to Downtown Brooklyn.

The intersection of Flatbush and Atlantic has again found itself in the crosshairs of sports, real estate and local pride.  In the 1950s, there used to be a ballpark that was almost built on the site for the Brooklyn Dodgers, who were taken to Los Angeles as the Nets have been from New Jersey.

Downtown Brooklyn is a curious area, both re-imaginable and steadfast to tradition, bordered by Flatbush, Atlantic, Court Street and Tillary.  As the prime office zone of Brooklyn, for most of the century the borough’s tallest building, the Williamsburgh Savings Bank, stood on the outskirts of the business district where today the tallest modular building in the world is planned.

The geography of Downtown Brooklyn cannot get any bigger, because of three landmarked districts at each edge: Brooklyn Heights, Fort Greene and Boerum Hill, plus the nexus coilings and byways at the exits for the Manhattan and Brooklyn Bridges.

But Downtown Brooklyn is posed to grow inside the minds of New Yorkers, with a new Skyscraper District launching up steel and glass, and a new recreation and residence hub launching in mass people to make transit and livelihood.

Downtown Brooklyn looking west from Williamsburg Bank Tower, ca. 1970; V1973.2.350, Photographic Collection, Brooklyn Historical Society.

Atlantic Avenue, ca. 1948; Downtown Brooklyn Development Association records, 1979.021; Photographic Collection, Brooklyn Historical Society.

The consequence of more traffic, however, may make the area seem smaller.  People who would drive in to the Harlem Globetrotters game or Leonard Cohen concert will be encouraged to save time and money on the train over the eternal city bane of parking.

In Satchmo, the autobiography of Louis Armstrong, the legendary jazz bandleader writes of growing up in the section of the port city of New Orleans he calls “Back o’ Town.”  It was the 1910s, and New Orleans also had an Uptown, Downtown, and “Front o’ Town.”

In topographical relation to the borough, Downtown Brooklyn is a nub of waterfront land toward the top west part of the island county.  Doesn’t it fit the mind and habitude of Brooklyners as a “Front O’ Town?”  And only perhaps to Manhattanites as “Back o’ Town.”

In 1853 the City of Brooklyn was consolidated by the absorption of outer territories known as Williamsburgh and Bushwick.  Borough Hall was built in the area and commerce has since revolved around it.

Borough Hall when first built in 1846; V1973.01.36; Non-photographic collection, Brooklyn Historical Society.

Brooklyn Bureau of Community Services Collection,ca. 1946, V1991.110.223; Photographic Collection, Brooklyn Historical Society.

Today, Front o’ Town is buoyed by visitor information maps and legends to the outlying areas.  I pass by these signs on my morning walk to work from Clinton Hill:

Downtown info map, Flatbush & Myrtle; M. Jasper collection.

MetroTech Center map; M. Jasper collection.

The 14 buildings of MetroTech Center have evolved over the last 30 years as the stretch of Flatbush extension sprouts sheer residential high-rises.

15 MetroTech Center; M. Jasper collection.

Myrtle and Flatbush Aves.

In 2008, New York University absorbed what in 1854 was established as the Brooklyn Collegiate and Polytechnic Institute.  This move might have been Manhattan’s revenge on Brooklyn for creating a rival basketball team.  NYU-Poly has a Residence Hall named after Mr. and Mrs. Donald F. Othmer (1904-1995), who was hailed as “the Hoyle of chemical engineering.”  Othmer taught at Brooklyn Poly and was instrumental in defrigeration, explosives, and while at Eastman Kodak worked on solving flammability problems for the preservation of acetate movie film.  A devoted Trustee of Brooklyn Historical Society, the library was dedicated to Othmer in 1992.

An early reference to “downtown Brooklyn” in the Brooklyn Daily Eagle is found in an 1875 real estate ad for “houses on the Hill” on Dekalb Avenue. The location touts a primacy of transit access, encouraging future inhabitants to come “from OVERCROWDED UP TOWN, New York… from OVERCHARGED DOWN TOWN, Brooklyn…”

BROOKLYN EAGLE POST CARD, SERIES 20, NO. 115. / JUNCTION FULTON STREET AND DEKALB AVENUE ABOUT 1850. Site of the Dime Savings Bank; V1973.4.38 a-d; Postcard Collection, Brooklyn Historical Society.

Some blocks away on Flatbush and present-day Livingston is Labon’s Inn, a quaff-and-chat parlor.

Labon's Inn, ca. 1850; V1973.5.1262; Brooklyn photograph and illustration collection, Brooklyn Historical Society.

In 1929, civic leaders organized the Downtown Brooklyn Development Association (DBDA) to improve business conditions in the area.  BHS archives includes a rich collection devoted to the group.

“Approximately 50,000 persons gain their livelihood in the Downtown Area and are housed within it every working day.” DBDA recognizes covering 8 acres where thru-passers “consume daily at least one meal in the area.”

The area is continually cited as a blight to civic functioning.  As early as 1900, the traffic conditions in the area were noted to be treacherous.

Brooklyn Safety Council, ca. 1930; V1973.5.1118; Brooklyn photograph and illustration collection, Brooklyn Historical Society.

The 1929 DBDA reports that “the Downtown Commercial Area has been considered a Bonanza section by the three industries represented” by beggars, peddlers and “pullers-in,” the latter an old-timey “portal solicitation” by hawkers at the door of the establishment, a “nefarious practice.”

Better Business Bureau brochures, 1946-57; Downtown Brooklyn Development Association records, 1979.021, Box 1; Brooklyn Historical Society.

In 1931, the Brooklyn Evening Journal quoted Democratic Party boss John H. McCooey referring to the territory at the mouth of Brooklyn Bridge as “an eyesore and a disgrace to the city.”

Long’s Hat Store at 389 Fulton Street won top prize in a 1929 citywide Show Window Display Contest conducted by the Electrical Association of New York, Inc.  In 1936, the winners were Frederick Loeser & Co. at 484 Fulton, and William Wise & Son, Inc. at 288 Livingston St.

Annual window display competition, 1929-1936; Downtown Brooklyn Development Association records, 1979.021, Box 1; Brooklyn Historical Society.

Mr. Fulton, Flatbush & Fulton; M. Jasper collection.

They built an elevated train along Fulton Ave. in 1885.  The DBDA records at BHS detail the celebrations and visionary fundraising which hailed its demolition in 1942.

FULTON STREET FROM DUFFIELD, 1941; V1987.10.5, Percy Varian Photographic Collection, Brooklyn Historical Society.

Fulton and Smith Streets, 1941; V1987.10.10, Percy Varian Photographic Collection, Brooklyn Historical Society.

In 1996, a study by the Chamber of Commerce reported the median household income of shoppers at Fulton Mall was $25,800.  Binkin’s was still the oldest bookstore in the borough at 54 Willoughby:

Downtown Brooklyn : a plan for continued progress, 1996, Othmer Library, Brooklyn Historical Society.

The Brooklyn Civic Center, conceived in the decade following WWII, proposed to reinvigorate with court houses and statues a neighborhood of rundown tenements and “gypsy tea-rooms.”  The deteriorated state of the off-ramp areas of the Brooklyn Bridge was compared to a new plaza, never implemented, dedicated to George Washington:

Brooklyn Bridge plaza, 1931-1941; Downtown Brooklyn Development Association records, 1979.021, Box 1; Brooklyn Historical Society.

Brooklyn Bridge plaza, 1931-1941; Downtown Brooklyn Development Association records, 1979.021, Box 1; Brooklyn Historical Society.

As assessment was made for a Title I slum clearance project at Cadman Plaza. The below 1959 map shows Title I areas in black and vacant or “sub-standard” and “suitable for rehabilitation” in gray.

Cadman Plaza: slum clearance plan under Title I of the Housing Act of 1949, 1958, Othmer Library, Brooklyn Historical Society.

The Plaza is named in honor of Bishop S. Parkes Cadman, the progressive and popular “radio pastor” of the Central Congregational Church of Brooklyn. Cadman was a roistering polemicist and wrote books on Darwin and Memory.  It was Bishop Cadman who in 1913 quipped the nickname for the gothic Woolworth Building, the world’s tallest, as the “Cathedral of Commerce.”

Bishop Cadman illustrated bookplate; Emma Toedteberg bookplate collection, 2012.004; Brooklyn Historical Society.

In a 1941 letter to the Downtown Brooklyn Association, Brooklyn Justice Lewis L. Fawcett invests the memorial of Cadman with evangelical zeal as “a monument to the eternal religion such as we only see in old Europe… in which you feel you have the spirit of God.”  Justice Fawcett assures that the elevated structures adjoining the plaza will have been duly removed prior to the Dedication.

Cadman Plaza also includes a bust of William Jay Gaynor, the only mayor of New York to have been shot by an assassin.

William Jay Gaynor, Cadman Plaza; M. Jasper collection.

William Jay Gaynor, NYPL digital collection.

Today, Brooklyners visit the Supreme Court to report for jury duty or search probate records.

Supreme Court, Cadman Plaza; M. Jasper collection.

In the 1980s, downtown showed a majority of buildings built before 1945, some of which were built as part of past development projects.

Downtown Brooklyn : a report, Regional Plan Association, 1983; Othmer Library, Brooklyn Historical Society.

The year one : a brief statement of some of the activities of Downtown Brooklyn Association Incorporated during its first year, 1929, Othmer Library, Brooklyn Historical Society.

The year one : a brief statement of some of the activities of Downtown Brooklyn Association Incorporated during its first year, 1929, Othmer Library, Brooklyn Historical Society.

When the Brooklyn Dodgers sought to relocate in the 1950s, Dodgers President Walter O’Malley, a former General Counsel for the ball club, brainstormed the idea of a stadium enclosed by a translucent roof, where weather conditions would not cancel a day at the ballpark and better lighting could be arranged for night games.   “There is psychological reasons [sic] in favor of translucent material rather than concrete construction to properly set the stage for the playing of a game that is traditionally an outdoor one.” O’Malley’s papers are collected at BHS, which include correspondence with the Owens-Corning Fiberglass Co. regarding technical details, where O’Malley suggests the finished structure might be a new “wonder of the world.”

O’Malley reached out to hypermodernists like Eero Saarinen at M.I.T., who designed Idlewild Airport, Norman Bel Geddes, the Art Deco master, and even R. Buckminster Fuller, the philosopher architectonicist, who lived in Forest Hills. O’Malley was intrigued by Fuller’s article in American Fabrics on the concept of the Dymaxion.  Fuller’s idea, among others, is to provide the best fully usable structure at least cost to the consumer of Spaceship Earth. In his letter, O’Malley admits that the price of the faux-open stadium exceeds the Dodgers budget.  “Baseball companies unfortunately, do not have the resources of the large industrial companies.”

Maybe if Bucky had designed the new stadium the Dodgers would have been accused of taking L.A. to Brooklyn rather than taking Brooklyn to L.A.

City Construction Coordinator Robert Moses suspected O’Malley of trying to finagle city funds designed for public use to build the new stadium. O’Malley evaded the suggestion and appealed to Moses’ concern by reiterating what he said at “our luncheon meeting” about the public purpose problem of parking.

Walter O'Malley letter, 1953; Walter O'Malley papers, 2004.003; Brooklyn Historical Society.

Good parking was a prime moving force for Moses, as it has become in the opening of the new arena.  But Moses wasn’t sold:

Robert Moses letter, 1955; Walter O'Malley papers, 2004.003; Brooklyn Historical Society.

He insisted that “the establishment of a new Dodger stadium is not of itself and by itself, a public purpose.”  But for the next fifty years the public of Brooklyn thought otherwise.

O’Malley despaired that horseracing would surpass baseball for New York sports fans, since the turf “found a way to get State legislation and financing for a super-colossal proposed racetrack.”  Plans were also put forth to relocate the stadium to various points in Queens.  This might have been more an affront to Brooklyners than the move to L.A.

Brooklyn Dodgers airplane in flight, ca.1955; V1991.52.1, Photographic Collection, Brooklyn Historical Society.

Today’s Atlantic Yards project roiled over similar development of antiquated mass transit and land use, the way that the Brooklyn Bridge killed the ferry business but blighted surrounding neighborhoods.

Brooklyn Bridge construction, 1874 Beers Atlas, Othmer Library, Brooklyn Historical Society.

See the pre-developed intersection of Atlantic and Flatbush in 1983, cited as ripe for “visual improvements:”

Downtown Brooklyn : a report, Regional Plan Association, 1983; Othmer Library, Brooklyn Historical Society.

Today one can get burgers, franks and thick shakes at Shake Shack on Adams Street, which must have fit the bill of visual improvement.

The corridors of Downtown Brooklyn may sometimes seem unsightly and inhibit a visual writability besides the ads for children’s dentists and underwear spreads for pretty big and tall ladies, yet such a madcap civic predicament both makes secret the old architectural touches and grandstands the strike and rush of moving life.  Anyone whose routine demands the threshold of Downtown knows it, beating sparks from the shoulders of Court Street stenographers, Jay Street bus drivers, Fulton Street shop barkers, Macy’s counter girls, NYU Polytechnic maintenance workers, Lawrence Street souvlaki-slingers, records room clerks in teeshirts and sneakers, lunch hour jurors, office furniture truck drivers, Schermerhorn Street bailmakers, City Tech students, process servers eating 99cent slices, the crazy man on a tirade at the halal wagon outside the Transit building…

Joraleman Street, Borough Hall, 2012; M. Jasper collection.

Downtown Brooklyn, 2012; M. Jasper collection.

Homage to Downtown Brooklyn, 1967, V1993.7.1; Photographic Collection, Brooklyn Historical Society.

Fulton Mall, 2012; M. Jasper collection.

Fulton Mall, 2012; M. Jasper collection.

Homage to Downtown Brooklyn, 1967, V1993.7.3 Photographic Collection, Brooklyn Historical Society.

The saga of Atlantic Yards has been dispatched to a creative and exhaustive parameter on numerous hotwires.  And don’t forget that the New York Islanders will still skate the island, and face off in the team’s new digs against the New Jersey Devils opening game next month.

Brooklyn History Photo of the Week: Flatbush Toll Booth

Flatbush Toll Booth, ca.1890, v1973.4.645; Postcard Collection, v1973.4; Brooklyn Historical Society.

This photograph features a toll booth that stood on Flatbush Avenue between Fenimore Street and Winthrop Street in what is now Prospect Lefferts Gardens. Built in the 1850s by the Brooklyn, Flatbush, and Jamaica Plank Road Company, the booth was used to collect tolls on Old Flatbush Turnpike, one of the main thoroughfares connecting the town of Flatbush to the city of Brooklyn. The road’s plank surface made it easier for wagons and carriages to travel on the dirt road. When the road company went out of business in 1893, the booth was gifted to John Moore, the last Flatbush Road Commissioner, who placed it in his backyard in East Flatbush. Today, the booth stands in Prospect Park, near the Lefferts Historic House and the carousel.

Among the major investors in the Plank Road were members of the Lefferts family. You can learn more about them and their role in developing the town of Flatbush from An American Family Grows in Brooklyn, BHS’s new digital exhibit.

Interested in seeing more photos from BHS’s collection? Visit our online image gallery, which includes a selection of our images. To search our entire collection of images visit BHS’s Othmer Library Wed-Fri, 1:00-5:00 p.m.

The Lefferts family goes digital

In 2010, the Lefferts historic house donated a rich collection of Lefferts family papers to Brooklyn Historical Society. Included were genealogies, bibles, recipe books, financial papers, personal recollections, and many other documents that offer an intimate glimpse into the lives and labors of one Brooklyn family over four centuries. Thanks to a generous grant from the Leon Levy Foundation, BHS spent much of 2010 and 2011 conserving, organizing, and processing these materials. The goal: to make these unique artifacts available to researchers, students, and museumgoers, and to preserve their historical lessons for generations to come.

Gold framed rose-tinted photograph of back of Lefferts homestead in snow; Lefferts family papers, ARC.145, box 5, folder 9; Brooklyn Historical Society.

When I began my work as BHS’s public historian in early 2011, I could not wait to dive into the institution’s rich archival materials. Very quickly, the Lefferts family papers became one of my favorite collections. Because it spans almost four centuries – from the arrival of the first Leffertses in 1660 through the present – the Lefferts family papers illustrate some of the most important themes of Brooklyn’s history: slavery and freedom, the development of Flatbush from farmland to suburb, the experiences of women in colonial Brooklyn, and many more.  We at BHS wanted to make these evocative materials available to as many eyes as possible.

That’s why BHS is proud to launch “An American Family Grows in Brooklyn: The Lefferts Family Papers at Brooklyn Historical Society.” This new digital exhibit examines Brooklyn’s complex history through the eyes of one family.  The site also includes an image gallery showcasing high-resolution reproductions of seventy-seven items from the Lefferts family papers.

Mrs. Lefferts' recipe book, circa 1800s; Lefferts family papers, ARC.145, box 6, folder 6; Brooklyn Historical Society.

An American Family Grows in Brooklyn” chronicles the family’s arrival in frontier Flatbush, their role in building Kings County’s booming agricultural economy, their use of enslaved laborers up until New York’s Emancipation Day in 1827, and their relationships with other Dutch families in the region.  Items like a nineteenth century cookbook or a list of expenses from a 1791 funeral reveal the material conditions that shaped the everyday lives of members of the Lefferts clan.  Other documents, like the dozens of slave indentures held in the collection, offer glimpses into the experiences of a less-chronicled but equally important group of Brooklynites: enslaved African Americans.

We hope that researchers, history buffs, students, and other Brooklyn enthusiasts around the globe take advantage of the rich resources available in “An American Family Grows in Brooklyn.

Brooklyn History Photo of the Week: Eliza J. Lefferts

Eliza J. Lefferts, circa 1850s-1860s; Lefferts family papers, ARC.145, box 5, folder 8; Brooklyn Historical Society.

 

This portrait depicts Eliza J. Lefferts (1831-1867), a member of one of Kings County’s oldest and most powerful families.  Eliza was born in Bedford Corners (part of present-day Bedford Stuyvesant). At the age of twenty, she moved a mile south to Flatbush when she married her cousin John Lefferts (1826-1895), heir to the Lefferts family homestead.  Eliza spent much of her adult life pregnant: she gave birth to six children between 1852 and 1860. In 1867, after a short illness, Eliza passed away. Her death was particularly difficult for her sister-in-law, Gertrude Lefferts Vanderbilt, who lived across the street and who had lost her mother only two years earlier. In a family history she composed for Eliza’s children, Gertrude wrote, “Every effort to renew her strength proved unavailing, and she died in 1867, greatly beloved and lamented.”

Brooklyn Historical Society recently launched An American Family Grows in Brooklyn, an exciting digital exhibit about the Lefferts family.  The website showcases documents and photographs (like this portrait of Eliza) from the Lefferts family papers, an archival collection housed in BHS’s Othmer Library.  It also chronicles the development of Brooklyn’s landscape, economy, and culture through the eyes of one family. Through the exhibit, BHS makes its rich collections available to researchers, history buffs, students, and other BHS fans around the globe.

Adrian Vanderveer Martense’s Lantern Slides

As an intern for the IMLS CHART project, I have been working on scanning and cataloging lantern slides from the Adrian Vanderveer Martense collection. Containing some 130 slides, it is a popular collection at Brooklyn Historical Society, since the photographs depict A.V. Martense (1852-1898), other family members, and extends far beyond the lantern slides. As early Dutch settlers, the Martense family established a homestead and farm in Flatbush, part of which now is Greenwood Cemetery.

Martense Farm House and surrounding field, ca. 1890, v1974.7.19; Adrian Vanderveer Martense Collection, ARC.191; Brooklyn Historical Society.

Martense Farm, 36th to 41st St., 9th Ave. to 13th Ave., Brooklyn. Stevenson & Marsters. (189-?) Brooklyn Historical Society Map Collection.

Most immediately related to the content of the lantern slides are two photo albums featuring some of the same lantern slide images. The existence of prints suggests that the lantern slides were likely copied from original negatives, as does the speed with which some of Martense’s images must have been captured. Lantern slides are not negatives, but positives, since they are designed to be projected and viewed. Lantern slides were created either by printing negatives exposed in a camera onto another negative (thus producing a positive for projection) or by exposing a sensitized glass negative directly in the camera and developing it in such a way as to produce a positive. Since lantern slides have the emulsion sandwiched in glass, it can be a little harder to determine which side is the front, so it is nice to have something like a print to reference. Perhaps more importantly, the albums feature captions and additional annotations that help answer some questions that the lantern slides alone do not. Among the images not reflected in the lantern slides are a number of group portraits.

Group on Mr. Brown's piazza, 1886, v1986.246.1.13; Adrian Vanderveer Martense Collection, ARC.191; Brooklyn Historical Society.

The matting applied to the lantern slides can be anything from a simple border to an oval, blocking the rest of the image when it is projected. Strangely, some of the matting suggests an editorial process as opposed to a finished product meant for an audience. Some of the matting crops the image at an angle, not parallel to the edge of the glass.

Mr. Sherrill holding a box camera, with his son at his side, ca. 1880, v1974.7.45; Adrian Vanderveer Martense Collection, ARC.191; Brooklyn Historical Society.

A few weeks back, while looking at an image of Martense holding a camera we debated what kind of camera it might be. A pinhole camera? A Brownie? A pinhole camera was probably too rudimentary for the photographs he was taking. Kodak did not introduce Brownies until 1900. However, in one of the albums, there were multiple references to a “Single Waterbury Lens”. The Waterbury Lens was put out by Scovill Manufacturing Company, who also manufactured box cameras and view cameras. The camera that Mr. Sherrill holds in the photographs below looks similar to Scovill’s Waterbury Detective Camera, which was developed in the late 1880s, a few years after some of the images labeled “Single Waterbury Lens” were taken. So it seems that Martense was at least working with some sort of box camera and not a pinhole camera.

Chickens in the yard at the Vanderveer house, ca. 1880, v1974.7.69; Adrian Vanderveer Martense Collection, ARC.191; Brooklyn Historical Society.

Copy of the map of the town of Flatbush in Dr. Strong's history, 1842. Pyle-Gray Real Estate Co. (19--?) Brooklyn Historical Society Map Collection.

This map of Flatbush from 1842 shows the names and locations of prominent families of early Dutch settlers. Apart from the Vanderveer and Martense families, Adrian Vanderveer Martense had familial ties to the Lefferts and Ditmas families, among others. In the collection of Martense family papers, there is evidence of landownership, farming, slave ownership and indentured laborers. Much of the business dealings seem to center around Garrit Martense, Adrian Vanderveer Martense’s first cousin once removed. (For those of you with as terrible a grasp on genealogical terms as I have, Garrit was his grandfather’s sister’s son.)

Mrs. G. L. Vanderbilt's house, 1890, v1974.7.15; Adrian Vanderveer Martense Collection, ARC.191; Brooklyn Historical Society.

The collection also includes a number of scrapbooks that contain clippings of humor pieces (some accompanied by great illustrations), poems, society pieces, and a few relating to church, politics and Martense’s family. One clipping in particular, gives a nice history of the Vanderveer family, describing how one among them had been taken prisoner by the British but at the point of meeting his sentence at the gallows a business relation interceded on his behalf.

Adrian Vanderveer Martense’s photographs reveal an enviable life: hanging out with gentlemen, taking photographs from the comfort of his horse-drawn carriage, playing tennis, or sailing. Apart from recreation, there is rich documentation of early architecture: from mansions, churches, and resorts to barns, toll booths, and windmills.

Men sailing in Sheepshead Bay, ca. 1880, v1974.7.36; Adrian Vanderveer Martense Collection, ARC.191; Brooklyn Historical Society.

Gentlemen sitting on rocks on hill overlooking New York Bay, ca. 1880, v1974.7.51; Adrian Vanderveer Martense Collection, ARC.191; Brooklyn Historical Society.